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Saturday, September 23, 2017

GOOD-BYE NEW YORK

No designer is better fitted to close out New York fashion week than Marc Jacobs – you just never know what you’re going to get at a Marc show. This season it was silence, there was no whimsical sets built, no music, just the sound of 56 models walking only to the sounds of their shoes on the old wood planks of the Park Avenue Armory. The clothes were full of wit and humor. After being in business for 25 years, Jacob’s looks to his past collections for inspiration; his program notes called it a “reimagining of seasons past somewhere beyond the urban landscape of New York City.”
No music was needed to set a mood, the clothes themselves set a happy and joyful tone. There were giant, overscaled flowers; Crayola colors, tinsel trimmings, exaggerated shapes, and sequins, sequins, sequins. Jacobs’s idea was to return to the archives, passing old ideas and former hits through “exaggerated, decadent, and exotic” filters. Although some looks were trippy, overall, Jacob’s did what he does best, delivering a young and exciting line-up.

ANNIE HALL

Traditional menswear has always been in fashion, but for spring designers are incorporating tailored suits in beautiful menswear fabrics for a look that is smart yet oh so chic. Of course no one does this better than Ralph Lauren. In one of the most anticipated shows of the season he transported the fashionable front row set to his garage in upstate Bedford, New York.  His vintage car collection is most impressive with Porsches, Ferraris, Jaguars, McLarens, and a Bugatti. The cars were innovative and sleek, but his clothes oozed timeless chic. For his Fall, buy-now-wear-now collection, Lauren worked mixed tweeds, checks and plaids on bustier tops paired with relaxed trousers. For evening, Lauren kept it casual with a puffer jacket over a sparkly minislip and over-the-knee boots as well as dapper tuxedos.

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

Meanwhile, Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia’s sophomore collection for the Oscar de la Renta brand were met with mixed reviews. Inspired by Pop Art and letters Mr. De la Renta wrote, along with thank-you notes that the duo have received from today’s young starlets. Sure De la Renta’s name was all over the collection, but his aesthetic certainly was not. Can you image Mr. De la Rents putting frayed and faded denim, sheer dresses, bathing suits and logo print furs on the runway? There were a few breathtaking evening gowns that rang true to De la Renta’s style, such as the colorful dégradé tulle gowns. Still, Kim and Garcia are trying to find their footing in the house of Oscar de la Renta.

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

ason Wu is known for his polished and elegant sensibility, and for spring he kept true to his DNA but in a slightly more casual way. But casual for Wu means a midriff-baring cutout on a striped cotton dress and laces suspended from a crinkled silk coat. For evening, Wu was inspired by Madame Grès and reinterpreted her innovative pleating techniques.  Wu also worked pleats onto sheer gowns staying right on trend.

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

This season is turning out to be a sheer sensation as designers are leaving very little to the imagination, but not in a vulgar way. For spring, they are embracing the transparency trend with soft, wispy fabrics delicately draped and overlaid showing just hints of skin in a romantic and feminine way. Speaking of femininity, Victoria Beckham showed off her softer side this season with sheer fabrics in soft colors proving that delicacy can in fact be strong. Case in point, Beckham’s first look: a soft yellow check shirt, which was slightly oversized and boxy, tucked into a dusty rose organza pencil skirt. Pure perfection!

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

Athleisure and streetwear have been going strong now, but for spring the trend takes a more feminine twist. At Alexander Wang’s #WANGFEST, models rode around a party bus Saturday night around New York City’s busy streets. The first stop was Lafayette and Center Streets in Manhattan, the second was at Astor Place; both were open to the public. The press and retailers were invited to the last stop – a dead end in Bushwick, Brooklyn; which then led to #WANGFEST, his jumping after-party in a literal jumpy castle. Models were literally pouring off the bus in a runway format that was fun and energetic. As for the clothes, it’s what Wang does best, sporty with a sexy twist. These are real clothes for all the cool kids. Wang layered denim cut-offs over leather leggings and there were a lot of extra sleeves and jackets that were cut in half and worn as skirts. Wang is also continuing his collaboration with Adidas, with a zip-front jacket with the extra sleeves cinching the waist.Meanwhile, at Calvin Klein, Raf Simmons continued his experimentation on American classics. For Spring, Raf was inspired by the contrast of the American Dream and American horror by invoking the magic of the movies; horror movies to be more specific as he played with Andy Warhol pop prints (specifically, Dennis Hopper circa Easy Rider and a 1971 Sandra Brant). His Hitchcock blondes wore rubber, and gauzy nightgowns reminiscent of Sissy Spacek in Carrie. Sticking to his American classics motif, Raf also showed plenty of cool denim, color blocked Western shirts, fringe dresses, 50’s inspired full skirted frocks and a nod to athletic with cool bungee cord details on nylon outerwear.
   

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

The Helmut Lang collection label is being revised again and the timing couldn’t be better, with so many young designers referencing the designer’s minimalistic aesthetic as a point of reference. The label’s designer in residence is none other than Hood By Air’s Shayne Oliver, so now Helmet Lang is sexier than it’s ever been. Oliver showed some streamline tailoring that was true to the houses’ heritage, but all with a fetish streak. The collection felt more like a Hood By Air show than a Helmut Lang collection. Oliver showed plenty of kink with asymmetric bras, daring peekaboo harnesses, rearless pants suspended from the waistband like garters, leather codpieces, and strappy BDSM gear. The collection left many Helmut Lang fans (all who remember his collections vividly) divided.

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

Tom Ford kicked off fashion week and it was the buzz of the season before it even started. His invitation was all the rage and was Instagramed by the fashion set – a bottle of his latest fragrance, Fucking Fabulous—as if we needed a reminder. Much of Tom Ford’s namesake label’s success has been with his menswear collections, so for spring, Ford took a nod from his menswear collection and showed impeccably tailored suits. His jackets were sexy and confident, with sharp lines and broad shoulders. In a throwback to his signature Gucci 90’s glam, Ford showed plenty of ruched net dresses that where oh so seductive – it’s clear, Tom Ford is back!

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

AddFashion Month is in full swing as New York kicked off the Spring 2018 show season with a bang. Of course, there was plenty of buzz before shows even started such as the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) cutting the NY calendar by a day, New York based designers showing in other cities, and the stress of where to show. Then lets add on the celebrity circus and street style stars in the mix and it’s been a entertaining week.One of the biggest trends among the fashion crowd before shows even began was the blue ribbon. Fashionistas are pinning themselves to protest racism and hatred in the wake of this summer’s white power rally in Charlottesville, Va. The ribbons were created by the CFDA and the American Civil Liberties Union. In a statement released, Steven Kolb, president and CEO of CFDA, said “We want to be on the front line, not the sidelines, to boldly fight to protect our precious rights and freedoms, which has taken on a renewed urgency after the heart-wrenching events of Charlottesville.” 

Thursday, March 23, 2017

Tuesday, March 7, 2017

Sunday, February 12, 2017

How To SEO Your Website?



How to SEO your website
Remove anything that slows down your site Link to other websites relevant content 
Write for humans first, search engines second encourage other trustworthy websites to Link to you
Have web analytic in place at the start Write unique and relevant Meta descriptions for each web page
Use readable and meaningful Urls only build moment with social signals use the right keywords in you images create and publish unique content.

Monday, February 6, 2017

Apparel Pattern Making Procedure



Apparel Pattern Making Procedure
The importance and necessary of a pattern maker in apparel Manufacture are inexpressible. A pattern maker is capable of converting fashion designers imagination or thought to become visible. A pattern maker is he who makes garment pattern based on provided idea/sketch. The sustainable of a design mostly depends on pattern makers experts,
Efficiency and capability: as all we know fabric is the main element of a garment item which contains about 50% (percent) of total value. So, 1% fabric cost is possible to save by efficient pattern maker, this will increase average profit margin. So we can easily realize the significance role of a pattern maker in wear manufacture to gain profit margin. Thus, owner of garment manufacture always gives top priority for making a good pattern maker team to minimize production cost.
Pattern maker working procedure as per mention under
A- Work sheet Review
B - Have to review all the packages/ program completely one by one for clear understanding. For this           task pattern maker should consult with relabeled merchandisers all time.
C - Ask merchandiser to provide all basic information or development sheet for review.
D - Have to confirm all the packages are clearly understood. It will be better if receive any reference pattern or sample from buyers side for review.
E - Have to know sample development schedule and delivery time before starting pattern.
F - If having any confutation or unclear point, should clear it before start pattern making.
Basic Pattern  
A - Check previous season or buyer sending pattern to avoid fit problem
B - Check buyer sending pattern with spec sheet
C - Should carefully rectify buyer sending pattern
D - Consider measurement loose for sewing, refer to previous similar style.
E - Consider the design line from mark sample or sketch.
F - If available copy pattern construction from previous style.
G - Should use mark and pin sample to make new style pattern.
H - Should apply update comments to avoid any missing and mistake.

Style Pattern
A - Before creating style pattern has understood all the construction very clearly
B - Have to understand the importance of notches, interior and exterior design details.
C - Have to understand seam allowance requirements based on machine and product construction.
D - Add fabrication as mention BOM with compare sketch details.
E - Proceed to make lining pattern from shell pattern based on style.
F - Check the full style pattern again ones ready, like join seam, fabrication, notches, internals, seam allowance, and all parts are created.
G - Pattern maker should make some mock up for critical points to fit the sample and consult with seniors if necessary.
H – To make washing style pay extra care to erase measurement problem.

Sewing Pattern
A-     Have to study buyer spec sheet clearly and sketch details attentively and follow all of their sewing pattern guideline.
B-      Have to make all needed pattern and be ready for sewing.
C-      The entire finish pattern should be made by hand or plot as per requirement
D-     All the important point should confirmed by seniors.
Marker Making
a-      Have to make correct model with all the pattern and correct fabrication.
b-      Before start the marker, pattern, and marker man have to check fabrication with fabric type and all pattern pieces are there to avoid any missing and mistake.
c-       Marker man should collect all the fabric width information.
Beside this a pattern maker has to maintain below responsible:
As we know if a pattern maker makes a mistake it will bring great loss to concern garments company. So garments owner should emphasize on pattern section and give them good working environment with motivation. It’s human nature that whenever they will get more then they will pay more attention to their duties.


a-      To be energetic for the development of pattern regularly and no compromise against product quality & measurement.
b-      Have to find out quick solution against any problem arisen regarding patterns during bulk production and identify root causes to erase hassles and take prompt corrective action.
c-       To be sincere to fulfill the pattern demand of buyers to improve the product quality.
d-      To keep up communication through e-mail or other way with the concern parties.
e-      Motivate and give training to subordinates to enrich their skills.
f-       Communicate with Merchandiser, CAD, Cutting, printing, embroidery, QC and Sewing floor for any functional requirements.
g-      Hardly devoted to achieve the company’s goal.
h-      Promptly implement the instruction of higher management.
i-        Should have sound knowledge regarding the utilization of equipment/machinery in production floor to ensure the product quality during pattern making.


Note: All the pattern maker should follow guideline perfectly without fail to minimize the mistake. We should realize that our entire attempt might become in vain if the pattern maker not maintain the above instructions strictly and not finished his task carefully. It will be better if there a cordial relation between pattern maker and concern merchandiser to expedite above task.
Marker
Marker making preparation and its factors
Some preliminary steps would be followed before marker making to gain optimum margin in bulk production. Nowadays modern technologies are used to
Increase marker efficiency. If it is not available then manual method is used to do marker making. Fabric natures, standards of fabric consumption, grain line direction and characteristics of pattern pieces are the main factors that affect marker efficiency. The common tricks which are being used for marker making have described below.
Cutting Table: marker planner should consider the cutting table length and width before marker making. Cutting table length must be more than the marker length for smooth operation.
                                                   
Fabric part: an expert marker maker should amalgamate all big parts together during marker making and then insert other small parts into the gap to enhance
The marker efficiency: They have to understand that about 90% marker efficiency is desired to garments manufacturer.
Fabric Faults: marker man should consider fabric quality report during marker making. If found any defects in a fabric toll and it was marked by the quality that points must be avoided for quality production and to least the fabric wastage.
Note: marker making size-middle of size range and give the fabric booking may be save cost for company
 if any inquire please contract at
 e-mail-dori.pattern@gmail.com

http://www.youtube.com/c/RMGPatternMaking16